Afghan Hound - Training

The Afghan Hound is a very intelligent dog but it does have an independent streak that requires patience and understanding. They need consistent and firm training but should never be treated harshly either in voice or correction as they will quickly become timid and may exhibit signs of becoming very nervous, anxious and high strung. Calm, gentle training as well as an understanding of the breeds needs to run and exercise on a daily basis is essential.

The Afghan Hound will often become bored of the same types of routines and training activities. Try to provide as much of a variety as possible. Never punish the dog for being itself, remember they are a hunting breed and have been bred for centuries to chase, manage the environment and always have the dog in a fence or on a leash to prevent run aways.

The Afghan Hound is often very difficult to housebreak and because of their large physical size crate training is usually not an option if the dog is beyond his or her puppy stage. Avoid punishing or harshly correcting the dog for accidents in the house, instead work on getting the dog or puppy outside faster and rewarding them for going to the bathroom in the right area.

An obedience class is an ideal option for an Afghan Hound. These classes provide both socialization as well as a way to learn to work with the nature of the dog. Be sure to look for a trainer that has experience in working with this beautiful breed of dog to make the most out of the class.

Welcome to the world of The Afghan Hound and may your friend bring you as much joy and love as ours have for us.

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Exercise

As a small pup let the dog play at its own pace. See that is does not run up and down too many stairs as it is hard on the developing shoulders. Never let the young dog jump off the grooming table and if you are a jogger, do not take him/her along until he/she is at least eight months old. Do take your pal for walks but gradually lengthen the distance as he/she gets older. One of our dogs did marathons with us. Be a playmate and play ball or another game but remember not to play games that the dog will win as he/she thinks that they are the master andd you are under them in the pack pecking order. You must always be the pack leader or alpha. The Afghan is a sight hound and can see far greater distances than humans. One must be able to restrain the dog from chasing after distant objects. A large fenced yars is a good place for the dog to run in but the fence must be high enough to prevent this great escape artist from easily springing over.

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Matting

Should you happen to find a mat in the dogs coat - dont panic. You may be able to pull it apart with your fingers or split it with scissors or anothr special tool. Spray "The Stuff" into the mat, work it into the matt with your fingers and let it sit for at least ten minutes. Attempt to pull it apart with your fingrs and brush out the area. If this doesn't work then use a pair of scissors or a detangling tool or matt splitter and use a sawing motion from the skin outward and downwards. Never, Never Cut The Mat Out Of The Coatthis leaves a hole in the wonderful coat and you should have purchased a Saluki. Promptly remove twigs, leaves and any other foreign objects from the dogs coat to avoid matts.

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Shedding

Although the Afghan is a single coated dog and does not shed like double-coated breeds (their hair compares to human hair) and may break and fall out. Split ends are a problem and proper hair care will reduce them. At approximately nine months of age the puppy starts to loose its puppy coat/wool. Simultaneously the adult silky coat is growing in and both types of hair entangle and create the dreaded matte. During this period examine the puppy and brush it daily to avoid creating apples under the arms and behind the ears. You'll find Afghan hair on couches, the best suit and all your visitors but with proper hair care the amount of loose hair is controllable, depending on how many dogs you have in the house

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Grooming Procedure

Using a spray nozzle attached to your tap/shower will prove most effective when bathing the Afghan. The use of a raised tub will make the bathing process easier on you and allow eye contact with the dog. The procedure should be a fun experience for the dog as it is a life long task. Ensure that everything is within reach and you do not have to leave the dog alone. The first time a pup is bathed will be a frightening experience and you must ensure that you do everything in your power to soothe the dog and keep it relaxed. Do not loose your temper, think about your first visit to the dentist or barber and how you felt. Your pup feels very much as you did, it's a new experience. Shampoo can be a special dog shampoo or a people shampoo. Never put the shampoo directly on the coat. Redkin Esture Shampoo has proven very effective for our dogs. It cleans well and rinses out easily. Mix the shampoo in a bucket or two liter container. One half inch in the bottom of the container usually suffices. Fill with water and stir simultaneously. Coat density, length and amount of dirt will determine the quantity of containers required. The same goes for the conditioner. Premix the conditioner and have it ready for use. One container should suffice. I recommend theCoat Handler Conditioner. Before bathing, have three or four large absorbent towels handy for the dog and at least one for you. Dip cotton balls into mineral or olive oil and put them in your dogs ears to prevent water from entering the ear canal. The night before the bath or at least two hours prior to the bath, spray the coat with a mixture of Jean Pierre Heri Creme Oiland water. Now that everything is ready it's time to bath the dog.

Bathing -

Run the water so that the water is not too cold or too hot. Place the dog in the center of the tub and thoroughly wet him/her down from head to tail. At this time a little obedience training comes in handy. The command"Turn" and "Dont Shake" are very useful. This way the dog and not the entire bathroom get a bath. At this time you may wish to take out small objects that have tangled in the coat as they come out easier when the hair is wet and pliable. Apply the shampoo and work it in with downward strokes. Rubbing or scrubbing may only encourage tangles and mattes. Once the dog is completely shampooed, it's time to rinse. A little device between the tap and shower head allows you to turn off the water flow without having to readjust the temperature, thus avoiding possible scalding of the dog. Ensure you rinse All the soap from the coat so that the hair squeaks when you gently pull downward between your fingers to remove the excess water from the coat. When rinsing, start at the head and work downwards and back toward the rear feet. When the water runs clear (no soap suds) you are ready to condition the coat. If the dog is still dirty after the first application of shampoo repeat as necessary to remove all the dirt.

Applying the Conditioner.

Apply the conditioner in the same manner as the shampoo, head to tail. Let the conditioner stay in the coat for at least three minutes, five is better. Now rinse out the conditioner completely and remove all the excess water you can. Remember downward strokes without crumpling the coat are best. If you wish to deep condition the coat (between shows) you may leave a light mixture of conditioner and water in the coat. This procedure helps repair split ends and oil loss and adds life to limp dull hair. If you are using the Coat Handler Conditioner you do not need to rinse out the water/conditioner mixture. This helps condition the hair and cuts back on your water bill. The last step before removing the dog from the tub is to spray the dog all over with a mixture of "The Stuff"and water. For males pay particular attention to the under belly and inside rear legs. This mixture is very slippery if allowed to fall on stone, tile or other smooth surfaces so it's better to spray the dog inside the tub.

Wrap Up In Towels/Drip Dry .

You are now ready to remove the dog from the tub and carry on to the next step. Wrap a large absorbent towel around the dog and lift him/her out of the tub and place him/her on another towel or carpet on the floor. Blot dry the areas with long coat and rub on areas with no coat (muzzle, saddle). Do not rub the dog dry as this will only lead to mattes and knots in this wonderful coat. Remove the cotton balls from the ears and throw them in the garbage. Allow the dog to drip dry for an hour or so. Ensure there is enough heat so that the animal does not get uncomfortable. Think of the temperature of the house when you step from the shower or bath. You may wish to put the dog in a crate to ensure your furniture and house stay dry. Put a few large absorbent towels in the crate to catch the excess water. Next clean up the bath area and prepare to dry the dog. As for the bath, have everything ready before starting and within easy reach.

Drying -

Place the dog on a grooming table or another large, flat, raised surface. The table height should be just above waist height and the table covered with an easily cleaned, non-slip surface. If you choose to use a grooming arm, place the dogs head through the loop and tighten it so that it is secure but not too tight. Some grooming arms have extensions that allow you to hold the haunches in an upright position thus not allowing the dog to sit or lay when you attempt to groom the rear end. If you wish to groom the dog while it is laying down then place the dog on their side and push the hair up and commence to dry from the bottom (the feet) up, layering as you go. Once the one side is done you have the dog turn over and do the other side and when both sides are finished the dog is misted with a coat grooming product and brushed through to add sheen. While the dog is laying on its side you may wish to cut the toe nails, clean the teeth and check the ears. Toe nails should be tipped a minimum of once every two weeks in order to keep them short. Teeth should be cleaned at least once a week with a dog tooth cleaning product, Not People Toothpaste

If your dog is standing during the drying and brushing process then start at the feet and work your way up. The heat setting on the dryer should not be more than 30 degrees Celsius. High heat will shrivel the hair and remove the protective oils from the coat and skin. Never put the dryer any closer than ten centimeters from the skin and avoid blowing directly into the eye and ear cavities. If you have a dark dog and have trouble seeing under the dog, a light table can be purchased or made. This will shine fluorescent light up and allow you to see what you are doing. A professional stand or cage dryer frees up both hands and allows you to layer while you brush. A normal people hand hair dryer will do but is not designed to withstand the prolonged usage (1 - 2 hours). Direct the air flow at the area you are drying and brush downward. Again, start at the bottom and work up. This way you will be removing mattes and knots as you encounter them and removing them with the least amount of resistance. If you start at the top you will drag the brush/comb all the way through the coat and cause larger mattes and increase hair breakage. Keep your wrist locked, Do Not Snap Your Wrist At The Bottom Of The Stroke. This breaks off the hair at the bottom and your wonderful mountain type coat will look like a desert coat (bald pasterns). If you find the hair is drying faster than you are brushing, mist the area you are working on. Never Brush The Coat Dry.

Once you have finished brushing and drying the coat use a Greyhound comb and remove all the small hair balls in the coat. Again ensure the coat is damp while doing this to reduce hair loss. Remember we all have fun trying to dry those Afghan feet. If your dog dances when you attempt to dry its feet, put one foot on your shoulder and lift upward to ensure that he/she doesn't just remove it and work on the foot that is on the table. This is supposed to be an enjoyable time for the dog, take the time and have the patience to make it so. We all loose our composure at on time or another. Think Of Your Friend, The Dog.

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Grooming Tools

Grooming Tools - You will need the following items:

• nail clippers
• a pin brush
• a slicker brush
• a comb with medium and coarse spacing between the teeth
• a pair of pointed barbers scissors
• a pair of rounded barbers scissors
• a few spray bottles
• a grooming table
• a grooming arm
• a hair dryer (1500 Watt or professional)

Read more »

Afghan Hound - A Snood

Something that is very useful is a Snood. This is a tube that slips over the dogs' head when he/she eat and prevents the ears from dangling in the dinner bowl. This way your dog can grow those long feathered ears you've admired on other adult Afghans. A snood is easily made from the leg of a mans sock or if you're handy with a crochet hook you make a rectangle of double crochet and fold it in half to make the tube, sew together and presto, instant snood. You can also take a rectangular piece of material and stitch it across several times with elastic thread and then stitch it together. If you get your dog familiar with the snood from the start he/she will raise their head to help with the fitting of the snood prior to eating.

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Diet & Feeding

Diet -

Your puppy eats an excellent puppy food. You have enough food to last one week. If you can not find a dealer that handles the brand of food in your area you can change the puppy's food to another quality puppy food. I suggest Iams, Technical or ANF. If you do find it necessary to change your puppy's food, do so gradually, over a two week period. Start by putting approximately three quarters of the present food with one quarter of the new food for three or four days. Then increase to fifty-fifty and so on until you are only feeding the new food. Ensure you maintain this schedule to avoid loose stooles or diarrhea, which could lead to dehydration and other problems. The same applies to changing water. The result of an overnight change of food or water can be very messy and or distressful. When traveling, always ensure you bring food and water from home. The young pup will take solace in the familiarity of its nutrition in strange surroundings. As your dog gets older you may not have to worry about changes of food or water but caution is my best advice.

Feeding -

Your pet eats four times a day and as she/he gets older, reduce to one or two meals a day. The feeding schedule is built around your schedule but also provide the opportunity for the puppy to have at least four hours between meals. One cup of dry food mixed with a quarter of a small can of Pal moist food in the morning and evening will prove to be sufficient for your growing pup. The other two meals could consist of a few dog biscuits and some pabulum (rice is best). Keep your puppy nicely rounded but not overweight. Remember, they grow rapidly and nutritional needs change as the puppy grows. The use of vitamins and other supplements with a quality dog food may reduce the nutritional value or nullify the benefits of the vitamins in the dog food. This does not mean that the veterinarian can not prescribe certain vitamins to ensure a strong healthy pup. Feeding people food usually only shortens the life of your pet. Dog food is developed to ensure the nutritional needs of your pet. People food is prepared by whim and has nothing to do with nutritional value in many cases When your dog reaches a year or year and one half in age, he/she requires a change in food. The growing process slows and he/she requires less protein and fat. Too much protein can be just as harmful as not enough. Change your pet over to an adult dog food after one year of age or advice from your veterinarian. You may now feed once or twice a day and normally three cups of dry food per day will prove sufficient. The method of feeding depends on your dog. Some dogs will eat everything in their bowl immediately or pick at the food as the mood hits. By giving meals at a certain time of day the animal gets into a routine that is very upsetting if you miss "Feeding Time". The other method of feeding is "Free Choice". This method allows you to set out food for the day and allow the dog to eat when it wishes. The method of feeding depends on the dog, you must select which is best for him/her and you.

A word of caution: because the Afghan is a deep-cheated dog with a high tuck of stomach, it is always a good idea to soak their meal in a bit of water a few minutes before feeding. This helps begin the breakdown of the food and lessens the chance of bloat. Do not allow your dog to exercise vigorously before or immediately after eating. Allow at least one hour after eating before any type of vigorous exercise and do not let the dog drink large quantities of water. Ice water is a definite no-no, even on hot days. Remember these points and follow a plan that proves best for you and your friend. Remember that a pups needs are different from those of your adult dog.

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Grooming

The long, thick coat demands a great deal of attention. When showing there is a must to bath once a week. Do not brush in-between baths in order to keep coat long and shiny. Brushing a dry coat will damage the coat and even make it more easily matted. Weekly baths are not as important if your Afghan is a pet and will not be shown, but doing so will make the coat less matted and will save you time in the end. Many wear snoods indoors to protect their ears from food bowls. A special air-cushioned brush or pinbrush is useful for grooming. This breed is an average shedder.

The long, silky beautiful hair of the Afghan Hound requires regular, daily grooming to keep it in top shape and free from knots and tangles. To keep an Afghan Hounds coat in good shape it will usually take a commitment of several hours of grooming time per week. The breed is never clipped or trimmed on the body or head for show, although the leg cuffs may occasionally be trimmed for show.

Typically an Afghan Hound being used as a show dog will be bathed at least once a week, however those that are used as pets will not require bathing this frequently. When grooming a pin brush and a wide toothed grooming comb is usually all that is required. A misting bottle filled with water or water with a few drops of dog hair conditioner or detangler mixed in is a great way to help detangle the coat and stop the coat from tangling back up after brushing. Unlike many breeds the Afghan Hound should be fully bathed before grooming if the coat is soiled, dirty or very matted. Trying to dry groom a coat will lead to more tangles and hair breakage that will significantly damage the appearance of the coat.

The coat should always be groomed from the area closest to the skin to the ends of the coat, not from the ends to the roots. Most owners will use a hairdryer to blow the thick coat aside to get to the area next to the skin. Other people choose to simply take their Afghan Hound to the groomer every two weeks for a complete bath and grooming. In addition a "snood" or hood can be used to protect the long hair on the Afghan Hounds ear's from getting into their food and keeping the hair around the head clean.

The commitment to grooming is essential for families or individuals thinking about choosing an Afghan Hound as a pet. These dogs cannot maintain their beautiful coats without regular, time consuming brushing and grooming. Understanding the commitment to grooming and the ongoing requirement is critical.

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Origin & History

Origin

This is a very ancient dog, native to Sinai, and mentioned several times in Egyptian papyruses as well as pictured in the caves of northern Afghanistan more than 4000 years ago. The breed was kept pure for centuries, and its exportation was always prohibited. It therefore only reached Europe as contraband early in this century. This elegant sighthound was used as a shepherd and hunter of many types of game including deer, wild goats, and even wolves and snow leopards. They were also used by shepherds as herders and watchdogs. An extremely fast and agile runner, the Afghan Hound pursues game by sight. His thick coat protects against temperature extremes. In Europe and America he has become a luxurious pet because of his aristocratic beauty. Some of the Afghan's talents are hunting, sighting, tracking, herding, watchdog, racing, and lure coursing.

Earlier beliefs and even today many believe the Afghan Hound is the most ancient of breeds. The actual age of the breed is disputed with each reading, each author and each generation, but most acknowledge that the Afghan Hound history goes back to approximately 8,000 years. Long-haired greyhound dog types were pictured and described in Egypt of 4000 B.C.

In his native land, Afghanistan, the Afghan Hound excelled as a hunter where he was used against a variety of wild game, such as the antelope, gazelle and snow leopard.

History

Sighthounds are among the oldest recognisable types of dogs, and genetic testing has placed the Afghan Hound breed among those with the least genetic divergence from the wolf on some markers; this is taken to mean that such dogs are descended from the oldest dog types, not that the breeds tested had in antiquity their exact modern form. Today's modern purebred breed of Afghan Hound descends from dogs brought in the 1920s to Great Britain, and are a blending of types and varieties of long haired sighthounds from across Afghanistan and the surrounding areas. Some had been kept as hunting dogs, others as guardians.

Although demonstrably ancient, verifiable written or visual records that tie today's Afghan Hound breed to specific Afghan owners or places is absent, even though there is much speculation about possible connections with the ancient world among fanciers and in non-scientific breed books and breed websites. Connections with other types and breeds from the same area may provide clues to the history. A name for a desert coursing Afghan hound, Tazi (sag-e-tazi), suggests a shared ancestry with the very similar Tasy breed from the Caspian Sea area of Russia and Turkmenistan.) Other types or breeds of similar appearance are the Taigan from the mountainous Tian Shan region on the Chinese border of Afghanistan, and the Barakzai, or Kurram Valley Hound, from India/Pakistan. There are at least thirteen types known in Afghanistan, and some are being developed (through breeding and recordkeeping) into modern purebred breeds. As the lives of the peoples with whom these dogs developed change in the modern world, often these landrace types of dogs lose their use and disappear; there may have been many more types of longhaired sighthound in the past.

Once out of Persia, India and Afghanistan, the history of the Afghan Hound breed becomes an important part of the history of the very earliest dog shows and The Kennel Club (UK). Various sighthounds were brought to England in the 1800s by army officers returning from India (which at the time included Packistan), Afghanistan, and Persia, and were exhibited at dog shows, which were then just becoming popular, under various names, such as Barukzy hounds. They were also called "Persian Greyhounds" by the English, in reference to their own indigenous sighthound.

One dog in particular, Zardan, was brought in 1907 from India by Captain Bariff, and became the early ideal of breed type for what was still called the Persian Greyhound. Zardan was the basis of the writing of the first breed standard in 1912, but breeding of the dogs was stopped by World War I.

Out of the longhaired sighthound types known in Afghanistan, two main strains make up the modern Afghan Hound breed. The first were a group of hounds brought to Scotland from Baluchistan by Major and Mrs. G. Bell-Murray and Miss Jean C. Manson in 1920, and are called the Bell-Murray strain. These dogs were of the lowland or steppe type, also called kalagh, and are less heavily coated. The second strain was a group of dogs from a kennel in Kabul owned by Mrs. Mary Amps, which she shipped to England in 1925. She and her husband came to Kabul after the Afghan war in 1919, and the foundation sire of her kennel (named Ghazni) in Kabul was a dog that closely resembled Zardin. Her Ghazni strain were the more heavily coated mountain type. Most of the Afghans in the United States were developed from the Ghazni strain from England. The first Afghans in Australia were imported from the United States in 1934, also of the Ghazni strain.) The French breed club was formed in 1939 (FALAPA). The mountain and steppe strains became mixed into the modern Afghan Hound breed, and a new standard was written in 1948, which is still used today.

The spectacular beauty of Afghan Hound dogs caused them to become highly desirable showdogs and pets, and they are recognised by all of the major kennel clubs in the English-speaking world. One of the Amps Ghazni, Sirdar, won BIS at Crufts in 1928 and 1930. An Afghan hound was featured on the cover of Life Magazine, November 26, 1945. "Afghan Hounds were the most popular in Australia in the 1970’s...and won most of the major shows". An Afghan Hound won BIS (Best in Show) at the 1996 World Dog Show in Budapest. Afghan hounds were BIS at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show in 1957 and again in 1983. That win also marked the most recent win at Westminster for an breeder-owner-handler, Chris Terrell.

The Afghan Hound breed is no longer used for hunting, although it can be seen in the sport of lure coursing

Read more »

Afghan Hound - Health

Morbidity and Health Concerns

Major health issues are allergies, and cancer. Sensitivity to anesthesia is an issue the Afghan hound shares with the rest of the sighthound group, as sighthounds have relatively low levels of body fat. Afghan hounds are also among the dog breeds most likely to develop chylothorax, a rare condition which causes the thoracic ducts to leak, allowing large quantities of chyle fluid to enter the dog's chest cavity. This condition commonly results in a lung torsion (in which the dog's lung twists within the chest cavity, requiring emergency surgery), due to the breed's typically deep, "barrel"-shaped chest. If not corrected through surgery, chylothorax can ultimately causing fibrosing pleuritis, or a hardening of the organs, due to scar tissue forming around the organs to protect them from the chyle fluid. Chylothorax is not necessarily, but often fatal.

Health Problems

Generally healthy, the Afghan has a low pain tolerance, thereby suffering even with minor injuries.

Mortality

Afghan Hounds in UK surveys had a median lifespan of about 12 years, which is similar to other breeds of their size. In a 2004 UK Kennel Club survey, the most common causes of death were cancer (31%), old age (20%), cardiac (10.5%), and urologic (5%).

Read more »

Afghan Hound Breed Standard

Afghan Hound Breed Standard

Appearance

The Afghan Hound is tall, standing 24 to 29 inches (63-74 cm) in height and weighing 45 to 60 pounds (20-30 kg). The coat may be any colour

, but white markings, particularly on the head, are discouraged; many individuals have a black facial mask. Some specimens have facial hair that looks like a Manchu moustache that are called "mandarins." Some Afghan Hounds are almost white, but particolour hounds (white with islands of red or black) are not acceptable and may indicate impure breeding. The long, fine-textured coat requires considerable care and grooming. The long topknot and the shorter-haired saddle on the back in the mature dog are distinctive features of the Afghan Hound coat. The high hipbones and unique small ring on the end of the tail are also characteristics of the breed.

General Appearance

The Afghan Hound is an aristocrat, his whole appearance one of dignity and aloofness with no trace of plainness or coarseness. He has a straight front, proudly carried head, eyes gazing into the distance as if in memory of ages past. The striking characteristics of the breed-exotic, or "Eastern," expression, long silky topknot, peculiar coat pattern, very prominent hipbones, large feet, and the impression of a somewhat exaggerated bend in the stifle due to profuse trouserings-stand out clearly, giving the Afghan Hound the appearance of what he is, a king of dogs, that has held true to tradition throughout the ages.

Head

The head is of good length, showing much refinement, the skull evenly balanced with the foreface. There is a slight prominence of the n

asal bone structure causing a slightly Roman appearance, the center line running up over the foreface with little or no stop, falling away in front of the eyes so there is an absolutely clear outlook with no interference; the underjaw showing great strength, the jaws long and punishing; the mouth level, meaning that the teeth from the upper jaw and lower jaw match evenly, neither overshot nor undershot. This is a difficult mouth to breed. A scissors bite is even more punishing and can be more easily bred into a dog than a level mouth, and a dog having a scissors bite, where the lower teeth slip inside and rest against the teeth of the upper jaw, should not be penalized. The occipital bone is very prominent. The head is surmounted by a topknot of long silky hair. Ears--The ears are long, set approximately on level with outer corners of the eyes, the leather of the ear reaching nearly to the end of the dog's nose, and covered with long silky hair. Eyes--The eyes are almond-shaped (almost triangular), never full or bulgy, and are dark in color. Nose--Nose is of good size, black in color. Faults--Coarseness; snipiness; overshot or undershot; eyes round or bulgy or light in color; exaggerated Roman nose; head not surmounted with topknot.

Neck

The neck is of good length, strong and arched, running in a curve to the shoulders which are long and sloping and well laid back. Faults--Neck too short or too thick; a ewe neck; a goose neck; a neck lacking in substance.

Body

The back line appearing practically level from the shoulders to the loin. Strong and powerful loin and slightly arched, falling away toward the stern, with the hipbones very pronounced; well ribbed and tucked up in flanks. The height at the shoulders equals the distance from the chest to the buttocks; the brisket well let down, and of medium width. Faults--Roach back, swayback, goose rump, slack loin; lack of prominence of hipbones; too much width of brisket, causing interference with elbows.

Tail

Tail set not too high on the body, having a ring, or a curve on the end; should never be curled over, or rest on the back, or be carried sideways; and should never be bushy.

Legs

Forelegs are straight and strong with great length between elbow and pastern; elbows well held in; forefeet large in both length and width; toes well arched; feet covered with long thick hair; fine in texture; pasterns long and straight; pads of feet unusually large and well down on the ground. Shoulders have plenty of angulation so that the legs are well set underneath the dog. Too much straightness of shoulder causes the dog to break down in the pasterns, and this is a serious fault. All four feet of the Afghan Hound are in line with the body, turning neither in nor out. The hind feet are broad and of good length; the toes arched, and covered with long thick hair; hindquarters powerful and well muscled, with great length between hip and hock; hocks are well let down; good angulation of both stifle and hock; slightly bowed from hock to crotch. Faults--Front or back feet thrown outward or inward; pads of feet not thick enough; or feet too small; or any other evidence of weakness in feet; weak or broken down pasterns; too straight in stifle; too long in hock.

Coat

Hindquarters, flanks, ribs, forequarters, and legs well covered with thick, silky hair, very fine in texture; ears and all four feet well feathered; from in front of the shoulders; and also backwards from the shoulders along the saddle from the flanks and the ribs upwards, the hair is short and close, forming a smooth back in mature dogs - this is a traditional characteristic of the Afghan Hound. The Afghan Hound should be shown in its natural state; the coat is not clipped or trimmed; the head is surmounted (in the full sense of the word) with a topknot of long, silky hair - that is also an outstanding characteristic of the Afghan Hound. Showing of short hair on cuffs on either front or back legs is permissible. Fault--Lack of shorthaired saddle in mature dogs.

Height

Dogs, 27 inches, plus or minus one inch; bitches, 25 inches, plus or minus one inch.

Weight

Dogs, about 60 pounds; bitches, about 50 pounds.

Color

All colors are permissible, but color or color combinations are pleasing; white markings, especially on the head, are undesirable.

Gait

When running free, the Afghan Hound moves at a gallop, showing great elasticity and spring in his smooth, powerful stride. When on a loose lead, the Afghan can trot at a fast pace; stepping along, he has the appearance of placing the hind feet directly in the foot prints of the front feet, both thrown straight ahead. Moving with head and tail high, the whole appearance of the Afghan Hound is one of great style and beauty.

Height, Weight

Height: Dogs 27 to 29 inches (68.58-73.66cm) slightly less for bitches.Weight: 58-64lb (26-34kg.)

Read more »

Afghan Hound - A Description

An Ancient Breed - Origins Lost In the Mist of Time?It was near Jebel Musa or the Mountains of Moses, on the peninsula called Sinia, between the Gulf of Suez and the Gulf of Aqaba, that the breed known as the Afghan Hound first became a recognized type of dog. This place, long held sacred by Hebrew and Christian alike, was part of ancient Egypt when the Afghan Hound's existence was first mentioned on a papyrus.

The document, which forms the cornerstone of the history of the Afghan Hound, is from the period 3000 TO 4000 BC, and mentions the dog so often that there is little doubt of the afghans existence at this time. According to Major Blackstone, an English authority on the Quities who made the translation, the Afghan called"Cynocephalus".,which literally translates as baboon or freely translates as monkey-faced hound. This is the meaning that Major Blackstone ascribes to it, for illustrations of the dog found on the tombs of the time offer convincing proof that even then, the Afghan Hound's head was suggestive of the baboon.

The Afghan Hound was the subject of mention in a valuable document of the times. This is tantamount to saying that he was accepted by royalty and his value as a hunting dog of rare ability was renowned. Development must have progressed systematically under the desert sheiks and although they left no stud books, there can be little doubt of the purity of his line for several thousand years. At first, it probably was a matter of selective breeding, breeding that was as successful as its modern, scientific counterpart.

The tombs on which the Afghan appears are in the Valley of the Nile. So it is inferred that, the hound, arrived in the entourage of a sheik or as a regal present to Memphis. His first appearance at the palace must have occasioned a stir and there is no doubt that an Egyptian princess claimed him as her pet and applied to him the nickname, "Monkey Face"

Considering the turbulent history of Egypt and the nature of the Afghan Hound it is not unusual that the archeologists could not find any trace of the dog itself when they unearthed the evidence that it had existed in Egypt and came from the Sinai. He is not a dog that would have prospered in urban surroundings, only the royal and the wealthy in a land such as Egypt could have maintained him.

Afghanistan. Just when the breed became established in the hill country of the northern part of Afghanistan may remain a mystery for a long time. The question why no trace of the Hound were found in Arabia or Persia, across which it would have to travel, may never be answered

While the Egyptian origin of the breed is well founded, there is little doubt that Afghanistan had made the greatest contributions to the development of the breed. Bred in mountainous terrain and living throughout the ages at high elevations where the winters are especially severe, the Afghan Hound has defied any change in its distinguishing characteristics. Its coat is of fine textured, thick, silky hair that stands off the body. The hindquarters, flanks, ribs and forequarters are well covered and the pendulous ears and the four legs are well feathered. The hair on the legs is full on the sides and extends right down to the feet. The Afghan Hound also has a topknot of silky, long hair.

While the tail is set low, the tail carriage is high. The high tail carriage emphasized in Afghanistan as the hounds hunt so much in thickets that it is only by watching the tails that the movement of the dogs is detectable. Another distinguishing point of the Afghan is the assembly of the hip bones. These are considerably higher than on the ordinary dog and set much wider apart. These unique hip bones make it possible for the Afghan to negotiate hilly country and uneven ground with ease and give him a motion like that of a monkey. Built in this manner, he turns easily and gets tremendous power into his leaps.

The Afghan hunts by sight and while he possess great speed, he is not as fast on the flat as other hound varieties. Yet, the Afghan knows no equal as a hurdle racer. Used for countless centuries in a country where leaping over obstacles was even more essential than speed, he has developed this specialty to the ultimate degree. Another heritage he brings to his new abodes in Europe and America is the ability to withstand any temperature - either heat or cold. Summers in Afghanistan are terrifically hot and winters severely cold.

The American Kennel Club describe the Afghan Hound as an aristocrat. "His whole appearance is one of dignity and aloofness with no trace of plainness or coarseness. He has a straight front, proudly carried head, eyes gazing into the distance as if in memory of ages past. The striking characteristics of the breed-exotic, or "Eastern," expression, long silky topknot, peculiar coat pattern, very prominent hipbones, large feet, and the impression of a somewhat exaggerated bend in the stifle due to profuse trouserings-stand out clearly, giving the Afghan Hound the appearance of what he is, a king of dogs, that has held true to tradition throughout the ages".

Descriptions of the Afghan Hound can be difficult unless you live with them, butDigitalDog website makes an excellent description in plain language and few words:

"The drama of the Afghan Hound would seem unlikely in a world of Labradors and Beagles, and then, you go to a show or a park and meet your first Afghan. Rather like the beautiful girl at school that everyone presumes is snobbish but is instead a bit gentle and shy, the Afghan reserves its happy abandon, total devotion and exuberance for those it knows best. This is not to say that the Afghan is a retiring competitor in Agility or Lure Coursing, indeed, the cloud of hair as they partly sail and partly fly at a full run defies honest description. The most heavily coated of the sighthounds, the Afghan is an ancient breed who's cousins still populate the desert areas striving to earn their keep in a changing world. Imported to the US in 1926, the Afghan quickly earned a place here, where its fanciers are quick to note that the dog is intelligent, perhaps too intelligent to be bribed for a bit of a treat and too aloof to work for someone who lacks sincerity and true enthusiasm for the task. To live and train an Afghan Hound requires respect for a strong minded individual who is happily a teammate but never a forced participant".

A Look Back

The Afghan hound was discovered by the Western World in Afghanistan and surrounding regions during the 19th century. As the breed developed in Afghanistan, two distinct types evolved from the southern and western desert regions and the northern regions. During WWI, the breed literally disappeared in the Western world. The start of the Afghan Hounds we have today dates back to 1920, when a group of them was brought to Scotland.

Right Breed for You?

Known for being aloof, dignified, and for having a highly individualized personality, Afghan Hounds are prized and loved by their owners as companions and members of their family. However, it is important to take into account that their coat requires regular grooming, and their larger size necessitates regular exercise.

Read more »

Afghan Hound - An Introduction

CONGRATULATIONS! You have just become the proud owner of one of the worlds most beautiful and elegant breeds of dog - The Afghan Hound

The Afghan Hound is a very old sighthound dog breed. Distinguished by its thick, fine, silky coat and its tail with a ring curl at the end, the breed acquired its unique features in the cold mountains of Afghanistan, where it was originally used to hunt hares, and gazelles by coursing them. Its local name is Tāzhī (Pashto: تاژی) or Tāzī (Persian: تازی). Other alternate names for this breed are Balkh Hound, Baluchi Hound, Barutzy Hound, Shalgar Hound, Kabul Hound, Galanday Hound, or sometimes incorrectly African Hound.

Referred to as an aristocrat, the Afghan Hound’s appearance is one of dignity and aloofness. Well covered with thick, silky hair, very fine in texture, the Afghan hound’s coat is a sort found among animals native to high altitudes. They can come in all colors, and while the breed is an excellent hound (hunting by sight) its popularity here has been generated by the breeds’ spectacular qualities as a show dog.

No other breed of dog can claim such exotic beauty and elegance as the Afghan Hound of today.

Read more »