Afghan Hound - Training

The Afghan Hound is a very intelligent dog but it does have an independent streak that requires patience and understanding. They need consistent and firm training but should never be treated harshly either in voice or correction as they will quickly become timid and may exhibit signs of becoming very nervous, anxious and high strung. Calm, gentle training as well as an understanding of the breeds needs to run and exercise on a daily basis is essential.

The Afghan Hound will often become bored of the same types of routines and training activities. Try to provide as much of a variety as possible. Never punish the dog for being itself, remember they are a hunting breed and have been bred for centuries to chase, manage the environment and always have the dog in a fence or on a leash to prevent run aways.

The Afghan Hound is often very difficult to housebreak and because of their large physical size crate training is usually not an option if the dog is beyond his or her puppy stage. Avoid punishing or harshly correcting the dog for accidents in the house, instead work on getting the dog or puppy outside faster and rewarding them for going to the bathroom in the right area.

An obedience class is an ideal option for an Afghan Hound. These classes provide both socialization as well as a way to learn to work with the nature of the dog. Be sure to look for a trainer that has experience in working with this beautiful breed of dog to make the most out of the class.

Welcome to the world of The Afghan Hound and may your friend bring you as much joy and love as ours have for us.

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Afghan Hound - Exercise

As a small pup let the dog play at its own pace. See that is does not run up and down too many stairs as it is hard on the developing shoulders. Never let the young dog jump off the grooming table and if you are a jogger, do not take him/her along until he/she is at least eight months old. Do take your pal for walks but gradually lengthen the distance as he/she gets older. One of our dogs did marathons with us. Be a playmate and play ball or another game but remember not to play games that the dog will win as he/she thinks that they are the master andd you are under them in the pack pecking order. You must always be the pack leader or alpha. The Afghan is a sight hound and can see far greater distances than humans. One must be able to restrain the dog from chasing after distant objects. A large fenced yars is a good place for the dog to run in but the fence must be high enough to prevent this great escape artist from easily springing over.

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Afghan Hound - Matting

Should you happen to find a mat in the dogs coat - dont panic. You may be able to pull it apart with your fingers or split it with scissors or anothr special tool. Spray "The Stuff" into the mat, work it into the matt with your fingers and let it sit for at least ten minutes. Attempt to pull it apart with your fingrs and brush out the area. If this doesn't work then use a pair of scissors or a detangling tool or matt splitter and use a sawing motion from the skin outward and downwards. Never, Never Cut The Mat Out Of The Coatthis leaves a hole in the wonderful coat and you should have purchased a Saluki. Promptly remove twigs, leaves and any other foreign objects from the dogs coat to avoid matts.

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Afghan Hound - Shedding

Although the Afghan is a single coated dog and does not shed like double-coated breeds (their hair compares to human hair) and may break and fall out. Split ends are a problem and proper hair care will reduce them. At approximately nine months of age the puppy starts to loose its puppy coat/wool. Simultaneously the adult silky coat is growing in and both types of hair entangle and create the dreaded matte. During this period examine the puppy and brush it daily to avoid creating apples under the arms and behind the ears. You'll find Afghan hair on couches, the best suit and all your visitors but with proper hair care the amount of loose hair is controllable, depending on how many dogs you have in the house

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Afghan Hound - Grooming Procedure

Using a spray nozzle attached to your tap/shower will prove most effective when bathing the Afghan. The use of a raised tub will make the bathing process easier on you and allow eye contact with the dog. The procedure should be a fun experience for the dog as it is a life long task. Ensure that everything is within reach and you do not have to leave the dog alone. The first time a pup is bathed will be a frightening experience and you must ensure that you do everything in your power to soothe the dog and keep it relaxed. Do not loose your temper, think about your first visit to the dentist or barber and how you felt. Your pup feels very much as you did, it's a new experience. Shampoo can be a special dog shampoo or a people shampoo. Never put the shampoo directly on the coat. Redkin Esture Shampoo has proven very effective for our dogs. It cleans well and rinses out easily. Mix the shampoo in a bucket or two liter container. One half inch in the bottom of the container usually suffices. Fill with water and stir simultaneously. Coat density, length and amount of dirt will determine the quantity of containers required. The same goes for the conditioner. Premix the conditioner and have it ready for use. One container should suffice. I recommend theCoat Handler Conditioner. Before bathing, have three or four large absorbent towels handy for the dog and at least one for you. Dip cotton balls into mineral or olive oil and put them in your dogs ears to prevent water from entering the ear canal. The night before the bath or at least two hours prior to the bath, spray the coat with a mixture of Jean Pierre Heri Creme Oiland water. Now that everything is ready it's time to bath the dog.

Bathing -

Run the water so that the water is not too cold or too hot. Place the dog in the center of the tub and thoroughly wet him/her down from head to tail. At this time a little obedience training comes in handy. The command"Turn" and "Dont Shake" are very useful. This way the dog and not the entire bathroom get a bath. At this time you may wish to take out small objects that have tangled in the coat as they come out easier when the hair is wet and pliable. Apply the shampoo and work it in with downward strokes. Rubbing or scrubbing may only encourage tangles and mattes. Once the dog is completely shampooed, it's time to rinse. A little device between the tap and shower head allows you to turn off the water flow without having to readjust the temperature, thus avoiding possible scalding of the dog. Ensure you rinse All the soap from the coat so that the hair squeaks when you gently pull downward between your fingers to remove the excess water from the coat. When rinsing, start at the head and work downwards and back toward the rear feet. When the water runs clear (no soap suds) you are ready to condition the coat. If the dog is still dirty after the first application of shampoo repeat as necessary to remove all the dirt.

Applying the Conditioner.

Apply the conditioner in the same manner as the shampoo, head to tail. Let the conditioner stay in the coat for at least three minutes, five is better. Now rinse out the conditioner completely and remove all the excess water you can. Remember downward strokes without crumpling the coat are best. If you wish to deep condition the coat (between shows) you may leave a light mixture of conditioner and water in the coat. This procedure helps repair split ends and oil loss and adds life to limp dull hair. If you are using the Coat Handler Conditioner you do not need to rinse out the water/conditioner mixture. This helps condition the hair and cuts back on your water bill. The last step before removing the dog from the tub is to spray the dog all over with a mixture of "The Stuff"and water. For males pay particular attention to the under belly and inside rear legs. This mixture is very slippery if allowed to fall on stone, tile or other smooth surfaces so it's better to spray the dog inside the tub.

Wrap Up In Towels/Drip Dry .

You are now ready to remove the dog from the tub and carry on to the next step. Wrap a large absorbent towel around the dog and lift him/her out of the tub and place him/her on another towel or carpet on the floor. Blot dry the areas with long coat and rub on areas with no coat (muzzle, saddle). Do not rub the dog dry as this will only lead to mattes and knots in this wonderful coat. Remove the cotton balls from the ears and throw them in the garbage. Allow the dog to drip dry for an hour or so. Ensure there is enough heat so that the animal does not get uncomfortable. Think of the temperature of the house when you step from the shower or bath. You may wish to put the dog in a crate to ensure your furniture and house stay dry. Put a few large absorbent towels in the crate to catch the excess water. Next clean up the bath area and prepare to dry the dog. As for the bath, have everything ready before starting and within easy reach.

Drying -

Place the dog on a grooming table or another large, flat, raised surface. The table height should be just above waist height and the table covered with an easily cleaned, non-slip surface. If you choose to use a grooming arm, place the dogs head through the loop and tighten it so that it is secure but not too tight. Some grooming arms have extensions that allow you to hold the haunches in an upright position thus not allowing the dog to sit or lay when you attempt to groom the rear end. If you wish to groom the dog while it is laying down then place the dog on their side and push the hair up and commence to dry from the bottom (the feet) up, layering as you go. Once the one side is done you have the dog turn over and do the other side and when both sides are finished the dog is misted with a coat grooming product and brushed through to add sheen. While the dog is laying on its side you may wish to cut the toe nails, clean the teeth and check the ears. Toe nails should be tipped a minimum of once every two weeks in order to keep them short. Teeth should be cleaned at least once a week with a dog tooth cleaning product, Not People Toothpaste

If your dog is standing during the drying and brushing process then start at the feet and work your way up. The heat setting on the dryer should not be more than 30 degrees Celsius. High heat will shrivel the hair and remove the protective oils from the coat and skin. Never put the dryer any closer than ten centimeters from the skin and avoid blowing directly into the eye and ear cavities. If you have a dark dog and have trouble seeing under the dog, a light table can be purchased or made. This will shine fluorescent light up and allow you to see what you are doing. A professional stand or cage dryer frees up both hands and allows you to layer while you brush. A normal people hand hair dryer will do but is not designed to withstand the prolonged usage (1 - 2 hours). Direct the air flow at the area you are drying and brush downward. Again, start at the bottom and work up. This way you will be removing mattes and knots as you encounter them and removing them with the least amount of resistance. If you start at the top you will drag the brush/comb all the way through the coat and cause larger mattes and increase hair breakage. Keep your wrist locked, Do Not Snap Your Wrist At The Bottom Of The Stroke. This breaks off the hair at the bottom and your wonderful mountain type coat will look like a desert coat (bald pasterns). If you find the hair is drying faster than you are brushing, mist the area you are working on. Never Brush The Coat Dry.

Once you have finished brushing and drying the coat use a Greyhound comb and remove all the small hair balls in the coat. Again ensure the coat is damp while doing this to reduce hair loss. Remember we all have fun trying to dry those Afghan feet. If your dog dances when you attempt to dry its feet, put one foot on your shoulder and lift upward to ensure that he/she doesn't just remove it and work on the foot that is on the table. This is supposed to be an enjoyable time for the dog, take the time and have the patience to make it so. We all loose our composure at on time or another. Think Of Your Friend, The Dog.

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Afghan Hound - Grooming Tools

Grooming Tools - You will need the following items:

• nail clippers
• a pin brush
• a slicker brush
• a comb with medium and coarse spacing between the teeth
• a pair of pointed barbers scissors
• a pair of rounded barbers scissors
• a few spray bottles
• a grooming table
• a grooming arm
• a hair dryer (1500 Watt or professional)

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Afghan Hound - A Snood

Something that is very useful is a Snood. This is a tube that slips over the dogs' head when he/she eat and prevents the ears from dangling in the dinner bowl. This way your dog can grow those long feathered ears you've admired on other adult Afghans. A snood is easily made from the leg of a mans sock or if you're handy with a crochet hook you make a rectangle of double crochet and fold it in half to make the tube, sew together and presto, instant snood. You can also take a rectangular piece of material and stitch it across several times with elastic thread and then stitch it together. If you get your dog familiar with the snood from the start he/she will raise their head to help with the fitting of the snood prior to eating.

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